A Love Affair with The Savoie

The first time I went to the Savoie I was ten years old. My family went on a vacation to Chamonix and we stayed in a traditional chalet. All week the woman of the house cooked dinner every night making us amazing meals from local ingredients. No fake farm to table there just honest to goodness cooking from the heart. The most memorable dinner was fresh trout that was prepared whole with the head still on. I will never forget looking at that fish on my plate, staring back at me and trying to be polite. One look from my mother and I knew I had no choice. The lady of the house must have seen my face as I sat there squirming and before I knew it she swooped in and took the fish away and brought me some scrambled eggs with cheese. My palate has certainly evolved since then but I'd say that trip to the Alps began my love affair with the Savoie. 

I've been back a few times in the last couple of years. The first time was after the Slow Food Cheese Festival. It was September and the mountains were green and covered in wildflowers. We hiked, ate cheese, drank wine and stumbled upon a centuries old festival that celebrates the return of the Abondance cows from the high Alpine pastures. It was magical to be there and see the pride on the faces of all the families who owned the herds. 

 Oh, and the cheese! The Savoie is home to some of the world's best. Beaufort, Tomme de Savoie and Reblochon to name a few.

Last year between Christmas and New Years my husband and I traveled once again to the region to meet up with our daughter who lives in Europe. We stayed deep in the region in a ski chalet and while they skied I shopped and cooked. While there I perfected  what could be considered the region's most well known dish: Tartiflette. Reblochon is not available in the US but there are great alternatives available. Try Ouleout from Vulto Creamery or Grayson from Meadow Creek Dairy. Visit with your local cheesemonger and they will be able to guide you.

Tartiflette

3lbs. Yukon gold potatoes, skin left on
2 tbsp butter
1 onion, thinly sliced
1/2lb. smoked bacon lardons
6oz dry white wine
7oz heavy cream
1 reblochon (about 1lb.)
1 clove of garlic

Cut the potatoes into 1" pieces. Boil the potatoes in well-salted water until just tender to a fork, but not cooked all the way through. Drain well and set aside. Preheat oven to 400 F.

Meanwhile, in a frying pan saute the onions and bacon until the onions are soft and both are beginning to brown. Pour in the wine, bring to a simmer, and reduce until the wine evaporates. Stir in the cream.

Rub an ovenproof dish with the butter then the cut clove of garlic. Add half the potatoes into dish.

Spoon over half the onion and bacon mixture and season well. Top with half the reblochon then repeat the layers, with the remaining reblochon half, rind uppermost, on top.

Bake for 15 minutes until browned and bubbling (stick it under the grill for five more minutes if you want it really crisp) Serve with a green salad and a glass of dry white wine. I suggest an Apremont or a Rousette.

Travel with me and Cheese Journeys to The Savoie, Jura and Alsace!

The Best Cheeses for Your Christmas Table

We are less than a week away from Christmas Eve and our shop is buzzing with activity. Between cheese platters, gift baskets and the opening of our second shop we haven't had a second to even breath. But finally today it feels like we have all our orders under control, the last of our shipping has been done and I got a chance to focus on some of the amazing cheeses in our case. With Christmas Eve only a few days away here are my picks for the best cheeses of the season and if I wasn't flying to the French Alps on Christmas Eve, what I would serve for my own celebration.

1. Harbison
Harbison is made on the farm by our friends at Jasper Hill in Vermont and this show stopping cheese has been spectacular this year.Its rich, gooey paste is slightly sweet and grassy, mushroomy and vegetal with a complexity that will leave you swooning. Harbison also makes a stunning presentation with its spruce bark wrapping and mottled blue and green molds on the bark. I suggest digging in with a spoon, grabbing the best baguette you can find and washing it down with a Belgian Saison, a craft cider or your favorite Pinot Noir.

2. Pleasant Ridge Reserve Extra Aged
I have always been a huge fan of this cheese no matter what its age but for the holidays Andy Hatch the cheesemaker and owner at Uplands Cheese Co. hooked us up with a few wheels of the longer aged variety. These 12-18 month wheels are full flavored, rich and buttery with flavors of nuts, fruit, herbs and almost an olive-y note. I think the finish rivals a great French Beaufort. Maybe I should pack a piece and test it against Beaufort when I'm in the Savoie later this week.

3.Stichelton
Christmas isn't Christmas without a good Stilton and our latest batch of the raw milk variety is showing as good as ever. These wheels are fudgy and moist with flavors of buttermilk up front, punchy blue, minerally spice in the middle and the LONGEST lingering flavor of barnyard, earthiness I've ever tasted. Truly spectacular and screaming for a vintage Port. Our friends at Harry's Wine & Liquor say the 2000 Graham's Vintage Port is the way to go. Add a jar of Harvest Song Preserved Walnuts and you will think you are in heaven. 

4. Brabander

I wanted to include Black Betty(the more aged version of the goat gouda Brabander and named for affineur and friend Betty Koster) as my pick but we sold the whole wheel in 2 days so we don't have any! Brabander however is equally worthy choice. It is younger than the Black Betty but still full of caramelly flavor and a creaminess that leaves you wanting more. 

5. Petit Vaccarinus

This Swiss version of Vacherin Mont d'Or is a celebration in a box.  Petit Vaccarinus is made between October and March, when the cows are no longer grazing on high Alpine pasture and are in the barns eating hay instead of grass. Flavors are strong and include mushrooms,earth, peanuts and straw and the texture is pure silk. This cheese makes a stunning presentation and requires nothing more than a great white wine like a Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer.

Burrata and Grilled Peaches

This weather is borderline ridiculous! It was so hot today that the thought of preparing a large meal was really unappealing so instead I combined some of my favorite ingredients into a light no fuss dinner for my family. Burrata is a very versatile cheese. It is creamy, milky and cooling and plays well with all sorts of seasonal produce. Here I used organic peaches, my favorite prosciutto and the best condiments I could find.

Burrata

Burrata and Grilled Peaches (Serves 4)

Ingredients:
1 ball of burrata cheese
Extra virgin olive oil
Good quality balsamic vinegar
Maldon Sea Salt Flakes and freshly ground pepper
2 ripe local peaches or nectarines
Baguette
12 slices of La Quercia Prosciutto Americano

Cut the bread into thin slices, brush lightly with olive oil and toast until crisp and golden.
Divide Burrata into 4 pieces. Drizzle it with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Peel the peaches, cut them in half and remove the pits. Brush lightly with olive oil. Grill peaches under broiler or on grill for about 4 minutes until they begin to char and are cooked through.

To assemble the dish, on four small plates place a grilled peach half, a piece of the burrata and 3 of the prosciutto slices. Drizzle with balsamic, serve with the toasts and enjoy.

   

Cheesemaking at Cato Corner Farm

Last week I finally got to do something I have wanted to do since we opened the shop in 2009. I spent the day with one of my favorite cheesemakers, Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm making cheese. We have carried Mark's beautiful, delicious cheese since we opened our doors. He creates his cheese on his family farm in Colchester Connecticut from the milk of his small herd of Jersey cows. They milk just about forty five cows and turn the rich, pure raw milk into some of the country's best farmstead cheeses. When Mark extended the invitation I took advantage and cleared my schedule. Ever since I started on my new career in cheese I have done everything BUT actually make cheese. While studying for the Certified Cheese Professional Exam I focused a lot on the process and the factors that produce great cheese, I read as much as I could find to understand and fill in where I thought my knowledge was weak. My day with Mark brought it all to life and I could have saved myself a lot of reading had I visited sooner.

Mark suggested that I arrive on the farm after the morning milking and after the milk had been placed in the vat. That way I could avoid the waiting around while the cultures and rennet work their magic, turning the milk into curds and whey. I arrived around eleven o'clock and Mark warmly greeted me and said we were going to make Bridgid's Abbey today. We sell a lot of Bridgid's Abbey in the shop so I was excited. It is mild and milky with a pretty natural rind that begets a nutty, tangy flavor. We took a quick walk around the farm, poked our heads into the main barn and also watched as a few of the cows had their hooves trimmed. It was a cool Spring day and the grass and trees were bursting forth.

The cows had still not been turned out onto the pastures. Mark said they (the cows) were anxious to get out there but the grass wasn't quite ready. It needed some more time to grow and strengthen before the herd could have their first feast of the season. They were pretty much hanging around the barn and paddock munching on hay. Mark looked at his watch and we made our way to the cheese making room, located adjacent to the barn and behind their farm store.

We changed out of our farm clothes into clean clothes and put on long aprons, the obligatory hairnets and tall rubber boots. All this garb is necessary in cheesemaking to preserve a sterile, clean environment. The cheesemaking room is small and rustic and when I walked in the smell of fresh, sweet milk hung in the air. It was warm and pretty humid. We scrubbed in, sanitizing our hands and arms, scrubbing them with a brush then putting on two layers of gloves. We also washed the fronts of our aprons since we would be leaning over the vat. Mark gave me instructions to not touch anything except the vat. I followed orders carefully, fearful of messing up a whole batch of cheese! Mark checked the curd in the vat and determined it was time to cut it. We spent quite a bit of time cutting the curd until it was the perfect size. Then Mark rinsed it, which helps produce a sweeter, smoother cheese with less acidity. 

Next came the fun part. We scooped the curds into the molds and the the cheeses quickly began to take form as the curds quickly knitted together. We flipped the cheeses a few times and then they went into the press for about twenty minutes. We finished up by washing down and sanitizing all the equipement, vat and surfaces. Cheesemaking really is 85% cleaning. 

After we were done cleaning Mark took me on

a tour of his cheese caves. The room was amazing. Wall to wall cheese, aging gracefully on wooden shelves. The smell of ammonia was heavy in the air and we walked up and down the aisles inspecting the cheese. We tested an aging Bridgid's Abbey and it was sweet and creamy.


 After the tour Mark had some cheese that was ready to come out of the brining solution so I decided to finish my visit by checking out the barns and the cows on my own so he could finish up his day. I took some great pictures of "the girls" They are friendly, gentle animals and I couldn't help think about how lucky they were to live on such a beautiful farm and be so well taken care of. Unlike big commercial dairies these cows live quite the life and their health and happiness is paramount to the quality, flavor and nutrition of the milk they produce. I say it all the time, "happy animals make superior cheese."  

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Ringing in 2013: Four Cheeses to Pair with Sparkling Wines

Ringing in 2013: Four Cheeses to Pair with Sparkling Wine

Whether it's Prosecco from Italy, Cava from Spain, Champagne from France or sparkling wine from the US, bubbly wines are the perfect match for an array of cheeses. What better way to ring in 2013 than with a cheese plate designed to complement the festive nature of sparkling wine?

MT. Tam is a luxurious triple crème cow’s milk cheese from. Triple Crème cheeses are rich and buttery with a fluffy texture and fairly mild flavor. They have a high butterfat content, which is balanced out by the refreshing bubbles in sparkling wine. Other triple crèmes to try to include Brillat Savarin or Kunik.

Pleasant Ridge Reserve is an Alpine-style cheese made from raw cow’s milk in Wisconsin. Pleasant Ridge has a nutty, clean flavor and a milky finish that shows off the extremely high quality of the cow's milk. Its rich, dense, and balanced flavors pair nicely with sparkling wine such as a Blanc de Noir, which elevates its sweetness and nutty quality. 

Garrotxa is a goat's milk cheese produced in the Catalonia region in northern Spain. The flavor is milky and delicate with a hint of nuttiness and a clean, smooth finish. It pairs with just about any sparkling wine but I suggest Cava.

Gorgonzola Cremificato is a dolce (sweet) style Gorgonzola from the Lombardy region of Italy. It is made from raw, cow’s milk and has a mild blue flavor with notes of grass. It pairs beautifully with a sweeter sparkling wine such as demi-sec champagne and makes a perfect dessert cheese.

Warming Up Winter with Fondue

Who isn’t a fan of fondue? On a cold winter night there are few things more comforting than melted cheese, especially when friends and family are gathered around to share in the experience. Originally a peasant food, fondue sprung up as a way to feed families at the end of a long winter. Farmers would use whatever was on hand, usually cheese, bread and wine, to feed their families and make it until Spring. The word “fondue” comes from the French word “fondre” which means to melt and its origin is the Jura Mountain range between France and Switzerland.  As Switzerland industrialized, cheese producers encouraged the dishes popularity and different parts of Switzerland adapted local cheeses and wines to suit local tastes. The dish was hugely popular in the United States through the late 1960’s and early 1970’s. I have vivid memories of being sent upstairs while my parents hosted fondue parties. So why is fondue so fashionable again? I think it has to do with ease of preparation and the availability of truly great cheese. It takes minimal effort and in less than an hour you have a great dinner party. Including the kids is up to you…

Serves 4 as a main course

Fairfield Cheese Company Classic Fondue

½ lb shredded Emmentaler
½ lb shredded Beeler Gruyère
1 clove fresh garlic
1½ cups dry white wine(we like Altesse, a wine from the Savoy region of France, available at Harry’s Wine & Liquor)
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp cornstarch
2-3 tbsp Kirsch
nutmeg and/or pepper to taste

Rub ceramic or earthenware fondue pot with cut garlic. Add wine and lemon juice. Over a low to medium burner, slowly add shredded cheese by handfuls, stirring constantly with wooden spoon until cheese is smooth and melted. Bring fondue to a bubble briefly. Add seasoning, stirring until blended. Mix cornstarch and Kirsch together to form paste. Add to fondue and allow to boil for another 30 seconds. If mixture is lumpy or thicker than desired, add small amounts of wine and stir. If it is too thin add more cheese.

Serve and keep hot over burner. Dip bread, apples, broccoli, summer sausage, steamed potatoes

Fairfield Cheese Company’s Beer and Cheddar Fondue

1 ½ cups beer or dark ale

2 cloves garlic, minced

8 oz Cabot Clothbound Cheddar

8 oz Shelburne Farms 2 Year Cheddar

2 tablespoons of cornstarch

1 teaspoon whole grain mustard

In a fondue pot over medium heat, heat the beer with the garlic until bubbles appear. Toss the cheese lightly with cornstarch until evenly coated and add a handful at a time.Stirring each time until the cheese is completely melted. Stir in the mustard and keep warm over low heat.

Serve with bread cubes, apple slices, sausages and potatoes. Serve cornichons on the side

Nothing Says Autumn Like Cheese & Apples:

A Cheese & Apple Pairing Guide

My favorite time of year is Fall. The temperature is cooler, the air is crisp, and of course, the trees here in the Northeast put forth a display of brilliance that is breathtaking. I love putting on a cozy sweater and enjoying the outdoors. The farmer's markets are still chock full of produce, and the seasonal selections inspire me to head back into the kitchen to take advantage. Winter squash and apples are piled high, and though they are available year-round, there is no substitute for a locally grown, in-season apple.
Apples also happen to be the perfect match for cheese. I know I'm stating the obvious when I say cheese goes with apples. The salty, earthy, and nutty characteristics in particular cheeses are just perfect next to the tart, sweet, and crisp fruit. Besides the traditional combination of cheddar and apples, there are other styles of cheese that work well with apples.  Hard cheeses such as aged Gouda, washed rind cheeses like Oma, mountain cheeses like Comté, and even blue cheeses make terrific matches. Below are a few of my favorite cheese and apple pairings. These are just suggestions, of course; with all the different varieties of apples in the market and the thousands of cheeses available, the possibilities are endless.

1. Nancy’s Camembert is a creamy, bloomy rind cheese from the Hudson Valley. It is meltingly smooth and buttery with the texture of a triple-crème and an earthy bite.
It would go well with a sweet or tart apple but I like it with an Empire apple.

2. Pecorino Tartufo has a great truffle flavor and it doesn't overwhelm the goodness of the cheese. Rather, the ingredients blend together superbly, making for a beautiful balance between earthy truffle and nutty, sweet, almost caramelized aged sheep's milk.
I like it paired with a sweet apple such as a Honey crisp or Jonagold. The resulting marriage is slightly reminiscent of a caramel apple.

3. Pleasant Ridge Reserve is a firm, raw cow’s milk cheese from Wisconsin. It has a nutty, fruity almost sweet flavor similar to a French Alpine cheese called Beaufort. It is a match made in heaven with a Macoun.

4. Grayson from Meadow Creek Dairy in Virginia is a shop favorite. Made from pasture raised, raw cow’s milk Grayson has the perfect blend of buttery, bacony flavor and barnyard aroma. It pairs beautifully with a sweet apple like a Red Delicious