A Love Affair with The Savoie

The first time I went to the Savoie I was ten years old. My family went on a vacation to Chamonix and we stayed in a traditional chalet. All week the woman of the house cooked dinner every night making us amazing meals from local ingredients. No fake farm to table there just honest to goodness cooking from the heart. The most memorable dinner was fresh trout that was prepared whole with the head still on. I will never forget looking at that fish on my plate, staring back at me and trying to be polite. One look from my mother and I knew I had no choice. The lady of the house must have seen my face as I sat there squirming and before I knew it she swooped in and took the fish away and brought me some scrambled eggs with cheese. My palate has certainly evolved since then but I'd say that trip to the Alps began my love affair with the Savoie. 

I've been back a few times in the last couple of years. The first time was after the Slow Food Cheese Festival. It was September and the mountains were green and covered in wildflowers. We hiked, ate cheese, drank wine and stumbled upon a centuries old festival that celebrates the return of the Abondance cows from the high Alpine pastures. It was magical to be there and see the pride on the faces of all the families who owned the herds. 

 Oh, and the cheese! The Savoie is home to some of the world's best. Beaufort, Tomme de Savoie and Reblochon to name a few.

Last year between Christmas and New Years my husband and I traveled once again to the region to meet up with our daughter who lives in Europe. We stayed deep in the region in a ski chalet and while they skied I shopped and cooked. While there I perfected  what could be considered the region's most well known dish: Tartiflette. Reblochon is not available in the US but there are great alternatives available. Try Ouleout from Vulto Creamery or Grayson from Meadow Creek Dairy. Visit with your local cheesemonger and they will be able to guide you.

Tartiflette

3lbs. Yukon gold potatoes, skin left on
2 tbsp butter
1 onion, thinly sliced
1/2lb. smoked bacon lardons
6oz dry white wine
7oz heavy cream
1 reblochon (about 1lb.)
1 clove of garlic

Cut the potatoes into 1" pieces. Boil the potatoes in well-salted water until just tender to a fork, but not cooked all the way through. Drain well and set aside. Preheat oven to 400 F.

Meanwhile, in a frying pan saute the onions and bacon until the onions are soft and both are beginning to brown. Pour in the wine, bring to a simmer, and reduce until the wine evaporates. Stir in the cream.

Rub an ovenproof dish with the butter then the cut clove of garlic. Add half the potatoes into dish.

Spoon over half the onion and bacon mixture and season well. Top with half the reblochon then repeat the layers, with the remaining reblochon half, rind uppermost, on top.

Bake for 15 minutes until browned and bubbling (stick it under the grill for five more minutes if you want it really crisp) Serve with a green salad and a glass of dry white wine. I suggest an Apremont or a Rousette.

Travel with me and Cheese Journeys to The Savoie, Jura and Alsace!